07.26Greatest Hits: The Oxford Shirt

‘Simple things done well’ is something of an unofficial motto of ours. The virtual rails of the Multibrand Store – and our own wardrobes, for that matter – are stocked with items that have been thoughtfully designed and robustly made, with an emphasis on understated, elegant simplicity. 

These items – the button-down shirts, shaggy knitwear, tweed overcoats and leather shoes – represent styles that have been popular since at least the middle of last century and remain as relevant as ever. With that in mind, we wanted to share some thoughts on why these items have endured, and what it is we like so much about them, beginning with the immortal oxford shirt.

‘The word classic has been thrown around so often it’s kind of lost its meaning, but the oxford shirt is actually a classic.’ So says Jason Jules — model, creative director, and author of Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style. Jason is someone we often turn to when in need of inspiration, and more often than not you will find him in an oxford shirt. 

 

Flat lay of Kamakura Vintage Ivy university stripe Oxford button-down shirts in green, pink and blue

Defining details

And what makes the oxford shirt so special? An understated cut, simple but effective details like a locker loop and back pleat, and a nicely rolling collar (this, especially, is key) which frames the wearer’s face in a flattering way – these are the qualities which have given the oxford cloth button-down (or ‘OCBD’, or simply, oxford shirt) staying power. ‘It’s aesthetically pleasing, but also functional and adaptable,’ Jason adds. ‘That’s testament to the oxford shirt as a piece of design.’

Flat lay of stacked Kamakura Vintage Ivy Oxford button-down shirts in solid colours and university stripes

Unpicking the oxford weave

Just as important as the cut and the details is, of course, the cloth itself. Button-down shirts are available in many different fabrics, but it is open weave oxford cloth that has become inseparable from the style. It’s an unfussy choice: durable, easy to care for, and resists creasing. On top of that it has a pleasingly tactile texture thanks to the unique way it is put together (achieved by a single, thicker weft thread crossing two thinner warp threads), and a soft colour created by a combination of white and coloured threads. Like denim, it’s not precious: rather, it’s something to throw on and forget about. And – again, like denim – it ages beautifully, looking its best after having been worn and washed endlessly, as it begins to fray around the collar and cuffs.

True dependability

Its tremendous versatility is what compels so many people (us included) to reach for an oxford shirt almost every morning when getting dressed, knowing it will pair effortlessly with whatever else you have picked out, be that a pair of well-worn old jeans, cotton chinos, a Shetland jumper, or a blazer. Sometimes, of a particularly trying morning, that dependability is worth its weight in gold. There’s no wrong way to wear an oxford shirt: it’s one of those wonderfully low risk, high reward sort of items.

Miles Davis wearing a classic Oxford button-down shirt
Kamakura Miles Davis Green Oxford shirt worn under a denim jacket
Portrait of Jason Jules wearing a tailored jacket, Oxford shirt and knit tie

A creative uniform

And while we’re not conducting a history lesson, it does bear glancing back at some of the cultural luminaries who were similarly enamored with the oxford shirt for these superlative qualities. Paul Newman, Miles Davis, John Updike, Andy Warhol and Fran Lebowitz all spring to mind. It's possible that the comforting assurance of a crisp oxford shirt hanging in the wardrobe, waiting to be shrugged on in the morning, freed up just a little bit of space in the minds of these remarkable people, allowing them to focus on higher pursuits. Or perhaps that’s a stretch. Either way, it’s no coincidence that so many people renowned for their good taste have favoured the button-down oxford shirt through the years. 

And as the shirt’s design is seemingly impossible to improve upon, the OCBDs those aforementioned artists wore are no different to the ones we wear today. ‘Watch a movie, pretty much any film noir, or a Fred Astaire film from the 1940s, and you'll see the shirt just as it is today, while everything else around it has changed,’ says Jason. ‘The cut of the suits, the hats, the ties: the way men dress now compared to then is almost totally different, but the OCBD shirt you or I buy off the rack in 2026 is much the same as the one they would have bought back in 1946.’

Our pick

Many companies have made oxford shirts, but our particular favourite is from Japanese maker Kamakura. Simply put it’s a well-made, stylish shirt, with care and attention paid to the details – most crucially, that beautifully rolling collar which they’re famous for – and a cut that’s modernised just a touch for contemporary audiences. We carry the shirt in a load of lovely colours, including the much-sought after ‘Miles Davis green.’ 

If you don’t already have one, perhaps now’s the time.

You can read more of Jason’s thoughts on menswear, fashion and culture on his Substack: Garmsville | Substack

BAG – (0)

Subtotal
Checkout